Performance Cuisine
If, as owner Steve Wynn believes, Bellagio is the future of Las Vegas, then Picasso represents one trend shaping the future of dining: the ultra-high-concept restaurant. As the availability and appreciation of great food have spread across the land, Americans are abandoning the elitist belief that it must be consumed in dignified surroundings that do not distract from what’s on the plate. For decades, American chefs strove to emulate the great Andre Soltner, who ran New York’s Lutece on the principle that fresh flowers provided all the visual excitement a restaurant needed....